How it works
We require the measurements of your panels to the nearest millimetre. You will not need to produce a template if your panel is a straightforward rectangle or square, however, if you require cut-outs or shaping (eg, for plug sockets or to fit under a curved extractor hood) then we would ask you to send a template ideally made from MDF. If the MDF template fits then you can rest assured that your glass will also fit! Alternatively you can make drawings and email these to us instead.
Please do not hesitate to contact us should you need any advice or help – we can provide a measuring guide should you require it.
How to measure
- Sizes should be presented in millimetres with the width and height clearly marked. Please remember that once the glass has been toughened it cannot be trimmed or filed, so it is important to get the measurements right first time.
- If you make templates they should always have straight edges, unless you have included an intentional curve or cut-outs to accommodate fixtures and fittings. The glass will always be cut straight, and will not be scribed (contoured) into uneven, crooked or irregular walls, worktops or floors. If templates are supplied that do not have straight edges we will insist on replacements.
- First check all worktops or shower trays with a spirit level. If this base surface is level you can move on to the next step. However, if it is not level this needs to be taken into account – we can then cut the glass out of square in order to keep the sides vertical. (It is particularly wise to keep the sides of glass panels vertical wherever panels butt against one another.) To provide us with the measurements we need, draw a horizontal line a few centimetres above the base surface along the entire length of the base, using your spirit level to ensure the line is level. You can then measure the height difference between the base and the line at each end to determine how far out of square the height is. It is important to do this or your ends will not be vertical!
- Next do the same vertically at the ends (sides) to find out if and by how much the sides are out of square. You can then measure between your lines and add on for any off-squareness.
- Do not measure too tightly – always leave a tiny gap around the edges to allow the panels to be installed smoothly and as a margin for error. The industry standards for glass cutting are + or –2mm; Easy Glass Splashbacks endeavours to achieve +0mm or –0.5mm, but there can be a variation of up to 1mm between different tape measures! It is good policy to follow this advice, whether you are making templates or supplying drawings.
- Bear in mind at all times – particularly when measuring around right-angled corners – that few walls are really flat. The glass will sit on the part of the wall that sticks out furthest. Where you are sitting one panel on top of another, or going round an internal or external corner, allow at least 8mm for the thickness of the glass and adhesive. You can always give yourself a little bit of movement by using plenty of adhesive to pack glass out from the wall when fitting.
- Please ensure that cut-outs for sockets or any other fittings are at least 20mm from the edge of the glass, or each other, unless they butt right up against one another.
- We can cut an upside down “T” shape to avoid joins.